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This is also beneficial when Ironing as you have less chance of getting glue on your iron or ironing board. I used both black and white interfacing. White on the light colors and dark on the dark colors.


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I also used the interfacing to create a subtle difference between solids that are really close in color. For example the two orange pentagons were very close in color, the top has black interfacing and the bottom has white interfacing. Notice how it creates a greater color difference between the two, subtle but different.

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Now that cutting and interfacing are finished let's get to sewing these babies! Line up two pentagons, right sides together and pin them together. Another crucial feature of making these balls sturdy is to lower your stitch length. I used 1. Back stitching at both ends is crucial, don't forget to do this every time. Remove pins. Open up the two pentagons and finger press the seam to the left.

Stitch, remembering to back stitch at both ends. Open up the three pentagons.

Now here is the tricky or neat part, you need to connect these three pentagons together. Gently rotate the upper right pentagon over onto the upper left pentagon. As seen on the green fabric that I am holding. Now pin these two together. You can see I have this pin at an angle, be careful not to catch the fabric that is sandwiched in there because it is neatly tucked inside. Stitch, back stitching at both ends in between the two pins.

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Remove pins, open up and you should have three pentagons neatly stitched together like the blue one I am holding. Congratulations if you can get this far, you can make a fabric ball and you have successfully sewn a Y seam! Decide which pentagon you want to act as the "middle" pentagon and orient it on top. Remove pins, open up and it should look like the upper aqua set that I am holding. You will then do the same neat rotating trick the same as step 3 and attach the newly sewn forth pentagon to the now designated middle pentagon.

Pinning and stitching in the same manner as all the others. Remembering to always finger press that back seam out of the way and not catching any of that sandwiched fabric. Once finished you will have 4 pentagons sewn together. Taking a fifth pentagon, add it to the top of the forth pentagon, sewing the same way as all the others. Open it up and it will look like the top blue set. Then repeat that neat little rotating trick to stitch it onto the middle pentagon. You should now have a middle pentagon and 5 other pentagons attached with just one opening as shown on the bottom pink set.

This is what step 7 looks like when you rotate it to stitch it onto the middle pentagon. Now close up that one last opening. Rotate the right side pentagon onto the left side opening, right sides together, pin and stitch in the same manner as all the other seams. Be careful not to catch any of the fabric or back seams. Remove pins, open it up and it should look like this photo, which is now exactly half of the ball. You will need to create the other half of the ball, so repeat steps You now have 2 ball halves that you need to stitch together.

The key to joining the two halves together is to remember that the peaks join into the valleys as shown in the photo. The upper half peak nestles into the lower half valley. Pin, finger pressing the left seam in the back towards the left and finger pressing the right seam to the right as shown in this photo. Continue to stitch around the whole ball, one short seam at a time, finger pressing the seams out of the way.

Stitch all nine joints, leaving the tenth open.

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You can see in the photo I have my finger stuck in the opening, leave it un-sewn as this is where you will turn the ball right side out. Once you have sewn all your seams and are ready to turn the ball right side out. I didn't trim the seams, it wasn't necessary. You can see my clipped seam in the left photo above. Another key to stitching these and having a smooth ball with no tucks or puckers can be seen on the photo to the right.

When stitching each separate seam make sure you don't overlap your stitching and you don't even have to meet the adjacent stitched seam, it is better if you don't. You can see I just left it and restitched the seam correctly. By leaving that little bit of space you are making sure not to catch other bits of fabric on the inside and creating tucks. When in doubt, leave the space! This is not the type of project where you have to be precise. Turn the ball through that little opening yes it requires some work, pulling and a lot of tugging but it will work.

Stuff them really full, I mean really full, tight as you can stuff it!

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This is a great project to use up all those random batting strips and scraps you have laying around, just stuff them in. If you don't have that, just use Fiberfill, one bag was plenty for all eight with leftovers. Once it becomes too hard to put anymore filling inside it, you are ready to stitch it closed. There will be some gaping and it won't look wonderful. I then went back over the seam a second time with a whipstitch just catching both sides and stitching as close together as I could, pulling tightly. You can see my stitching on the right photo.

Knot off the end with your preferred method and clip the thread.

Keep in mind this is for children to play with, it doesn't need to be perfect, they won't mind. You are finished and now have a neat hand made fabric ball. Stuff and hand stitch the remaining balls until you have a set of eight. Play ball! Now if you have a good eye you might notice I am missing something, the jack or pallina, which is another small ball that you throw at the beginning of the game, it serves as the target in which you are throwing your larger balls at or as close as you can get them.

This ball measures about 2" in diameter and is too small to sew using this method. I plan to English Paper Piece this ball and sew it all by hand, but haven't done that yet.


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